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Japan
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Japan

Japan blends tradition and modern life in ways that feel entirely its own. In Kyoto, cherry blossoms drift past quiet temples and traditional streets where geiko and maiko still make their evening rounds. In Tokyo, the Shibuya crossing surges with people while ramen bars and izakayas fill with late-night diners. Travel across the country and the scenery shifts quickly. Bullet trains glide between cities, steaming onsen baths sit beneath mountain views in Hakone, and in winter the slopes of Hokkaido draw skiers from around the world.

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Unmissable Moments

Sumo at the Ryogoku Kokugikan

Sumo at the Ryogoku Kokugikan

Walk along the Sumida River from the hotel as the rikishi arrive. Find your seat before 3pm and watch Japan's oldest sporting tradition play out in front of you. The September tournament's final week means every bout carries real weight. The ritual before contact, the stillness, then the explosive few seconds that decides everything. You'll understand why Japan has kept this unchanged for centuries within the first ten minutes of being inside.

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Sumo at the Ryogoku Kokugikan Arena

Sumo at the Ryogoku Kokugikan Arena

Walk along the Sumida River from the hotel as the rikishi (wrestlers) arrive. Their scale makes everything around them look smaller. Inside, thousands of people fall completely silent before each bout. One of the oldest sporting traditions on earth, still completely unchanged. Japanese sumo crowds don't cheer. They hold their breath, then they erupt.

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Hanshin Tigers at Koshien Stadium

Hanshin Tigers at Koshien Stadium

47,000 people in Tigers gear. Coordinated chants, plastic batting sticks clapping in unison and an atmosphere that builds from the first pitch. Japanese baseball crowds don't watch passively, they perform. September is tournament season which means the energy is dialled up and the stadium feels every bit of it – it’s one of the loudest rooms you'll ever sit inside.

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Butter Hotel Bingo Night

Butter Hotel Bingo Night

You’d never believe it, but somehow in the middle of your ski trip, bingo becomes the main event. It’s loose, loud, slightly chaotic, and exactly the sort of mountain-town madness that turns strangers into mates and a story you’ll keep dragging out for years.

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The Village Between the Runs

The Village Between the Runs

Most ski destinations have a village. Hakuba has a whole world tucked between the slopes. A pottery studio next to a ramen bar. A tiny sake shop run by someone who wants to tell you exactly where every bottle came from. A bakery that opens at seven and sells out by nine. Locals who've been skiing the same runs for thirty years. Between the mountains and the onsen and the izakayas, Hakuba's village is the part of the trip that fills in everything the snow days leave out.

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Experience A Traditional Okinawan House

Experience A Traditional Okinawan House

Most visitors to Okinawa never make it here. Spend the night in a traditional Okinawan house, an afternoon out on the water with a local operator who knows these reefs like his own backyard, and an evening feast with locals.

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Stay In A Traditional Kyoto Temple

Stay In A Traditional Kyoto Temple

Tatami underfoot. Shoes left at the door. Dinner made entirely from plants, plated like art. As the sun drops, the temple quiets. Morning chants drift through thin walls.

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Freedom Camping on the Beach

Freedom Camping on the Beach

This is the furthest from home you'll feel on the whole trip, in the best possible way. Izena is small, remote and almost entirely off the tourist map. Most people who visit Okinawa never make it here. The ones who do, and who sit down to dinner with locals on their first night, tend not to stop talking about it.

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Walk the Kumano Kodo

Walk the Kumano Kodo

People have been walking this path for over a thousand years. It's otherworldly. This is a 10km guided section of one of the world's truly great pilgrimage routes. The climbs are real and the terrain keeps you honest, but the pace is yours.

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The Village Between the Runs

The Village Between the Runs

Most ski destinations have a village. Hakuba has a whole world tucked between the slopes. A pottery studio next to a ramen bar. A tiny sake shop run by someone who wants to tell you exactly where every bottle came from. A bakery that opens at seven and sells out by nine. Locals who've been skiing the same runs for thirty years. Between the mountains and the onsen and the izakayas, Hakuba's village is the part of the trip that fills in everything the snow days leave out.

See The Full Trip
The Village Between the Runs

The Village Between the Runs

Most ski destinations have a village. Hakuba has a whole world tucked between the slopes. A pottery studio next to a ramen bar. A tiny sake shop run by someone who wants to tell you exactly where every bottle came from. A bakery that opens at seven and sells out by nine. Locals who've been skiing the same runs for thirty years. Between the mountains and the onsen and the izakayas, Hakuba's village is the part of the trip that fills in everything the snow days leave out.

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The Village Between the Runs

The Village Between the Runs

Most ski destinations have a village. Niseko has an entire scene. Hirafu is one of the most developed ski villages in Asia and it shows in the best possible way. Restaurants that would hold their own in Tokyo. Ramen spots, izakayas, convenience stores stocked better than most supermarkets back home and a high street that somehow keeps revealing something new every evening you walk down it.

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The Village Between the Runs

The Village Between the Runs

Most ski destinations have a village. Niseko has an entire scene. Hirafu is one of the most developed ski villages in Asia and it shows in the best possible way. Restaurants that would hold their own in Tokyo. . Ramen spots, izakayas, convenience stores stocked better than most supermarkets back home and a high street that somehow keeps revealing something new every evening you walk down it.

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The Village Between the Runs

The Village Between the Runs

Myoko Kogen has a whole world tucked between the slopes. A pottery studio next to a ramen bar. A tiny sake shop run by someone who wants to tell you exactly where every bottle came from. A bakery that opens at seven and sells out by nine. Locals who have been skiing the same runs for thirty years and have strong opinions about which izakaya does the best skewers.

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The Village Between the Runs

The Village Between the Runs

Myoko Kogen has a whole world tucked between the slopes. A pottery studio next to a ramen bar. A tiny sake shop run by someone who wants to tell you exactly where every bottle came from. A bakery that opens at seven and sells out by nine. Locals who have been skiing the same runs for thirty years and have strong opinions about which izakaya does the best skewers.

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The Village Between the Runs

The Village Between the Runs

Most ski destinations have a village. Nozawa Onsen has a whole world tucked between the slopes. A hot spring town that has been here for centuries before the first ski lift was built. Thirteen public onsen baths dotted through the streets, each one free to use and fed by natural springs. A pottery studio next to a ramen bar. A tiny sake shop run by someone who wants to tell you exactly where every bottle came from. A bakery that opens at seven and sells out by nine. Locals who have been skiing the same runs for thirty years. Between the mountain and the onsens and the izakayas, Nozawa Onsen village is the part of the trip that fills in everything the snow days leave out. And unlike the more internationally marketed destinations, most of it still belongs to the people who actually live here

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Cultural Detour

Cultural Detour

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Cheat Sheet:
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MAJOR AIRPORT:

Tokyo Narita International Airport (NRT) & Haneda Airport (HND)​

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CURRENCY:

Japanese Yen (¥ / JPY)​

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HIGH TRAVEL SEASON:

March to May & October to November (cherry blossoms or fall colors for temples and hikes)​

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LOW TRAVEL SEASON:

June to September & December to February (rainy or snowy, fewer crowds at onsens)​

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TIPPING CULTURE:

Not expected

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HOW TO SAY 'THANK YOU':

Arigatou gozaimasu, pronounced "ah-ree-gah-toh goh-zai-mas"

Along the way

Why we love it

Sam
Sam
The country of contrasts

I've been to Japan three times and I'm still not close to done with it. That's the thing nobody tells you before you go, it's not one country, it's about fifteen versions of the same country existing simultaneously and all of them are extraordinary. The food alone would justify the flight. The fact that you can be in a Shinjuku izakaya at midnight and a bamboo forest at dawn the next morning is just everything else on top. Japan ruined normal holidays for me. I have no regrets.

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